Whichever direction of attack you take up Gunung Ledang, Johor’s highest peak is the ultimate obstance course. There are stairs and ladders to climb, rope work to complete and cut off times to meet in order to make the peak. And I haven’t even mentioned the scenery.
Popular amongst Malaysian and Singaporean hikers due to its proximity to the border of Melaka and Johor, I first climbed Ledang, in 2014, before I started this blog. With my second Gunung Ledang hike imminent, I thought I should finally document that first time.
Having driven down to Tangkak Johor the day before and spending the night in Gunung Ledang Park, the following day at 8am Hafiza, Khairul and the rest of the KL Hiking crew, yours truly included, convened in front of Taman Negara Gunung Ledang’s Operation Centre.
Well managed by Johor National Parks Corporation, there are limits placed on the number of hikers allowed on Ledang’s trails and in the spirit of “Leave No Trace” fines are imposed for littering or items left behind. So, after filling out a bunch of forms and each of us documenting what was in our bags, we were briefed on what to expect by one of the park rangers, before being led to the trailhead by our guide. Besides permits, guides are also mandatory, with one required for every 10 hikers in a group.
Hiking the Lagenda trail up Gunung Ledang, our journey started around the back of the building in a series of stairs. Tangga Mahligai sounded deceptively heavenly, but at the start of our hike when our bodies had yet to warm up or stretch out, 700+ stairs was enough to make any hiker consider packing it in. Fortunately the torture was brief, about 10 or 15 minutes.
The first checkpoint, CP1 – Bukit Semput marked the start of the forest trail. Malay for Wheezing Hill, it pretty much summed up our our physical state when we got there. Surrounded by tall skinny trees, the long leafy trail climbed past CP2 – Hentian Meranti, Simpang Laluan Kijang which bypasses CP4 – Kolam Gajah, a campsite located by the cool cascades of Sungai Ayer Panas, and continued winding up towards CP3 – Batu Orkid, which is marked by a gargantuan boulder. Only then did we come to CP5 – Sungai Segi Tiga.
Despite our trail being set between Sungai Ayer Putih and Sungai Ayer Panas, up until then we were completely unaware of the gorgeous falls and cool pools that were hidden close by, like Ayer Putih, Kolam Puteri, Twin Falls and the aforementioned Kolam Gajah.
Though nowhere near as dramatic, Sungai Segi Tiga’s rock plateau was arrived at after several stream crossings and is the sole water point on the trek up to the peak. It was also where the KL Hiking crew took a brief but well deserved break. Unfortunately strictly enforced cutoff times meant we couldn’t linger, even though we had kept apace . Besides, we couldn’t risk our muscles cooling down.
Up until CP5, the trail resembled that of many Malaysian mountains, but beyond it the terrain radically changed, beginning with a section called KFC. Short for Killing Fitness Centre (I thought Killer For Climbers sounded snappier) the moniker obscured the fact that dreaded though it was, it was precisely these tough sections that makes Gunung Ledang so darn appealing.
Where the mountainside is worn away by erosion and denuded of anything but trees and roots, the only way to scale it is by ladder or rope. And though it looked daunting visually, in reality it wasn’t physically taxing as frequent bottlenecks gave us the chance to catch our breath.
Further along, CP6 – Gua Kambing threw in slight variation in the form of narrow ravines and rocky crevasses to squeeze through. Like a fool, I bumped my head hard on the roof of one of the caves on the way in. It was only in the interest of safety that after I emerged from the hole on the other side I told Hafiza to watch out for signs of a concussion. Unhelpfully, this includes confusion and incoherent babble. Basically me on any given day.
I frequently complain that hiking is almost entirely leg work; Ledang is an exception to that rule as upper body strength is vital, particularly when faced with Ledang’s Batu Hampar section. Consisting of three sheer rock faces with an incline of about 60 degrees, applying the right technique and equipment makes lighter work of it.
As instructed, we took turns to place the rope between our legs for stability, and hoisted ourselves up one arm pull at the time, feet acting like anchors against the stone, always mindful of keeping a safe distance from the climber ahead or beside us. Wearing shoes with good grip and gloves to prevent rope burn helped too. Fortunately none of these sections were so steep that we couldn’t rest mid-way when we needed to, and some climbers even made their way up along the side using roots and shrubbery for traction.
Besides the sense of accomplishment achieved having scaled Batu Hampar, the reward for our effort was our arrival at Taman Bonsai. Perched on the precipice of the mountain, this photogenic forest of gnarled trees weatherbeaten by the elements framed picturesque views of the rolling hills below us.
As we traversed its peaty trail surrounded by stunted trees covered in moss and glistening with moisture, I was reminded of hikes in Cameron Highlands.
Bukit Botak where we emerged, couldn’t have been more different. Flat and exposed it looked as though some tree planting was imminent. Too hot to stop, we walked on through.
After another ladder/rope combo and we were once again faced with a wall of impenetrable rock, this one vertical and vertiginous. Appearing to be at least 4 storeys high, the only way up and over it was via a series of steel ladders, thankfully not all the way up to the top.
Another ladder and rope climb and then….
Instead halfway up, we came off one ladder, across a crag and down on the other side, where using rope to guide us, we shimmied across a ledge to yet another ladder to continue our way up to the crest of the mountain.
Though we had arrived at the false peak, Hafiza and I were contented to stand at the edge of CP8 – Puncak Mahligai for a while and admire the view. Thick mist which had engulfed the scenery swirled past us and for a brief moment revealed the landscape below. Besides, the summit was not far off, up a final set of ladders bolted to the side of one last rocky outcrop.
The vista here was less scenic – a bunch of spindly telecommunication towers and beyond that fields of palm oil mono culture – but after 4 hours we had made it to the top. Celebrations were in order.
We ripped our jackets out of our bags, commemorated our victory with photos and unpacked our food, while enviously watching Adli boil water for a hot cuppa. He had come fully kitted out, while the the rest of us for fear of being of weighed down kept our day packs to a minimum. Our loss.
Approximately an hour later we were packed up ready to go. To avoid hikers still making their way up to the peak, we plied an alternative route marked in the map with a dotted line. This route is sometimes suggested by the guide in inclement weather or when hikers need a short cut.
Detouring quickly just below the peak, we’re shown a stone with worn down jawi script carved into it that dates back to 1313. My ability to read Jawi is abysmal but as it turns out it was likely Kawi anyway, an ancient Javanese language with Sanskrit roots.
Though this way there was no abseiling down Batu Hampar to be completed, the trail was just as technical as KFC, with ropes and ladders to navigate the boulder strewn mountainside. Adding to the risk factor was fatigue and having to awkwardly swivel our bodies around to face the mountain for fear of slipping and falling.
After 20 minutes we arrived at Kem Senget, a cavernous gully criss-crossed with burbling streams that have carved deep furrows through the rock. It had a mythical air about it befitting the Puteri Gunung Ledang legend that’s inextricably linked to this place.
At Simpang Pedita, our trail intersected with our original trail up to the summit, although we didn’t realise it until we had passed Batu Orkid.
40 minutes later we hobbled down the last stair. We had at last conquered Ledang. Whose the Princess now?I
8.45am Hike starts
Not recorded CP1 Bukit Semput
Not recorded CP2 Hentian Meranti
9.30am Pass Simpang Laluan Kijang turn off towards CP4 – Kolam Gajah
9.35am CP3 – Batu Orkid
10.35am CP5 – Sungai Segi Tiga
10.50am Laluan KFC
11.20am CP6 – Gua Kambing
11.40am Batu Hampar
12nn Taman Bonsai
12.20pm CP7 – Bukit Botak
12.50pm CP8 – Puncak Mahligai, 1265 metres
1pm Arrive at peak
1.55pm Leave peak
2.30pm Kem Senget
4.10pm Pass Batu Orkid
4.50pm Arrive back at Pusat Operasi Taman Negara Gunung Ledang
Altitude 1276 metres.
Time and distance Approximately 4 hours up and 3 hours down with an hour at the peak for a total of 8 hours.
Rating Hard. Not just about the distance climbed, this hike requires upper as well as lower body strength to surmount those steep dirt trails and and sheer rock walls.
Tip Wear gloves and shoes with good grip as there is a fair amount of ladder and rope climbing to be done, and a rain proof jacket for the cold and sometimes wet weather.
Cost Numbers are limited and permits and guides are required. Be sure to book ahead by 2 weeks to a month. Costs as indicated in the image below.
Where we stayed Due to the early start time and distance from KL, we put up the night before at one of the Standard Chalets within the park for RM220/night, now RM250/night. Basic but comfortable it accommodates 4 people (and 1 cat) with air-conditioning in the master bedroom, hot showers, and breakfast. Camping, Dormitory, Cabin and Deluxe Chalet accommodation is also available.
Getting there Exit the NSE at Tangkak and turn right. After passing through town, head for Sagil, and after the police station (on your left) take the second left. Bordered on either side by palm oil plantation you’ll pass under a sign welcoming you. Continue until you arrive at Taman Negara Johor Gunung Ledang. The operation centre and Lagenda trailhead begins here.
Taman Negara Johor Gunung Ledang P.O. Box 77, Batu 26, Jalan Segamat, Sagil, Ledang, 84020, Johor. T: +60 7 266 1301 T: +60 6 963 1030 / + 60 19 777 2057 E: jnpc@johor.gov.my W: http://www.johornationalparks.gov.my F: http://www.facebook.com/TamanNegaraJohor I: www.instagram.com/JohorNationalParks/
POKOK KELAPA 
Hi,
My company is currently conducting a study on Gunung Ledang National Park, which includes a survey of past and present visitors to obtain their feedback on the Park as a whole.
If you are interested to partake in the survey, please feel free to contact me at sab@ere.com.my , thank you.
Thanks Sabrina, I’ll be in touch.