Moneyed up developers may own the country’s most expensive slice of real estate, but Malaysia’s most beautiful piece of land belongs to the Temiar of Kampung Pendeq in Perak.
It’s hard to imagine anywhere in Peninsula Malaysia that is as idyllic as Kampung Pendeq. Visitors wax lyrical about Lata Tengkoh Penyell (or Lata Penyel as it’s more popularly known), the village’s spectacular waterfall. But Kampung Pendeq is much more than that.
It’s the scenic drive there, it’s impossibly gorgeous village, the lush rainforest that surrounds it, and the way of life its indigenous Temiar residents have carved out for themselves: one devoted to nature and living sustainably. And yes, it’s the waterfall too. Who else can say they have one of Malaysia’s most beguiling waterfalls on their property?
Getting there takes a 1 hour drive from Sungai Siput or a pleasant 30 minutes drive from Kampung Bawong, where the trailhead to Bukit Berekeh is located.
Prior to 2019, the journey from Kampong Bawong would have been along a bumpy laterite track. Fortunately it’s since been upgraded to a tarmac road making the string of orang asli settlement in north Sungai Siput a lot more accessible.
To get there, proceed right at the fork just after Kampong Bawong in the direction of Kuala Mu.
Once clear of the palm oil plantations, the route follows the sinewy curves of the Sungai Pelus, which flashes into view through the foliage as you pass a mix of forest, rubber estate and orang asli villages.
At another fork after Pos Legap, a left takes you towards Pos Yum. Kampung Pendeq is the first in series of 5 Temiar villages along this newly laid stretch of road. Kampung Pendeq is located at a sharp bend and is impossible to miss. It’s well sign posted and there’s a hut at the entrance to the village entrance where your parking and chalet fees are collected.
The 800 metre walk to Lata Tengkoh Penyell from here is short, sweet, with a barely noticeable 50 metres altitude gain.
From the entrance, a pock-marked tarmac road leads to the village. Traditional Temiar homes made using natural materials such as bamboo, rattan and Bertam tree fronds sit to either side. They’re sizeable, dark and cool inside and raised off the ground making them perfectly suited to their the weather and their environment.
There with a handful of Trailblazers, it was 10.30am when we wandered past and already blazing hot. Human activity was noticeably absent but cats lay stretched out on verandahs sleeping or lazily grooming.
Part of a JAKOA-Lembaga Koko Malaysia initiative, the village is book-ended by rows of cocoa trees, and harvested cocoa beans were spread out in baskets and left to dry.
Where the tar road abruptly ends, the trail begins, to the left up through the cocoa trees, past cultivated fruit trees and crops and into the forest. Protected from the sun by the canopy, the well maintained footpath is shaded and quiet except for the soothing rush of Sungai Pendeq.
It was after a bamboo gate that I crossed paths with a line of elderly women returning to the village after a morning of foraging. Each carried on their back a basket laden with produce: tapioca shoots or sweet potatoes still caked in dirt.
“You’ve nearly reached your destination. Not far to go to the waterfall,” they encouragingly offered, ready smiles lighting up their soft, weather-beaten faces. Sadly I didn’t snap any photos of them: I was too shy to ask and am still trying to grasp what interactions count as acceptable or exploitative. Your thoughts on this topic are welcome.
Once of the other side of a second bamboo gate, below what might be the village’s only concrete structure (the washroom), a cluster of chalets and lanai came into view. Available for overnight stays or for use during the day as a place to nap or picnic, they make an excellent base upon which to pitch a tent or string up a hammock.
Like the village homes, they meld form and function, and are immensely practical. Constructed from materials derived from the forest, they are easily repairable, and if heavily damaged can be disposed off and replaced without severely impacting the environment. This is unlike the often poorly maintained concrete structures found at Malaysia’s eco parks and riverside attractions.
Towering just above their roofline is Lata Tengkoh Penyell. A 60 metre fall, split into two by protruding rock and foliage, the near vertical drop is a tropical fantasy turned reality.
Framed by bright red hibiscus flowers and stalks of wild ginger, the base of the left side of the fall where the stepped entry point is lacks a pool but attracts bathers to its slippery moss-coated rocks for its hydromassage qualities.
Sat atop one of them, being hit by surge after surge of chilly water as it ricocheted off the sculpted surfaces of the rock was better than any water park I remember.
The right side of the fall is a more sedate affair but equally attractive. It’s shallow thigh high pool is the perfect spot in which to languish on a cloudless blue sky day.
Kudos to the people of Kampung Pendeq. To generate revenue, they’ve done an excellent job of creating an inviting, litter-free recreational space for visitors that melds perfectly with the natural surroundings. Much more than that, they’ve generously chosen to share their slice of paradise with the rest of us. I’m not certain a moneyed up developer would be keen to do the same.
Distance and time 800 metres. Between 15 to 20 minutes one-way at a leisurely pace.
Rating Easy. Hike is short, sweet and suitable for beginners and children.
Leech count A few but not aggressive.
Permits Not required.
Costs Accommodation: between RM60 and RM150/chalet. Whatsapp Aziz for bookings: 017-5313 691. There’s no phone service at Kampung Pendeq so a response is not immediate. Parking: RM10/car, RM5/motorbike.
Pros Ridiculously photogenic waterfall that’s shallow and safe, an easy hike to get there thats suitable for beginners and children, set in a charming Temiar village.
Cons It’s a long drive and part of the road between the Pos Legap turn off and the village is under repairs following damaged caused by extreme rainfall experienced in December 2021. No phone service (yet). Crowded on weekends.
Facilities Toilets, changing room and chalets for day and overnight use.
Parking Roadside at the bend outside the Kampung Pendeq.
Tip Pair it with a sunrise hike of Bukit Berekeh in Kampung Bawong. Stay overnight and have it all to yourself in the evening and the following morning.
GPS coordinates (parking) 4.928883, 101.322986
This is one of the rare occasions that a trail map isn’t necessary. If you need to, you can view my AllTrails log of Lata Tengkoh here.
I was at Lata Tengkoh with Trailblazer Hiking Club Malaysia. You can join them on their next hike by signing up here. THCM founder Kelvin also runs private trips. Get in touch with him through the Facebook page for details.
If you’d like to find out more about the Temiar people of Pos Yum, Ipoh blogger Logaprakash Kandasamy writes an excellent Malay language piece on his Red Devil Macha blog here.
POKOK KELAPA 
Hi,thanks for the mention earlier.Anyway, my name is Logaprakash Kandasamy, not Logakandesh hahaha
Oh so sorry about that. Corrected. And congratulations on the blog. I found it very insightful.
Thanks too,all the best in the future writeup